août 2000, sur le spot mythique de Teahupo’o, à Tahiti, le surfeur américain Laird Hamilton dompte ce qui sera surnommé plus tard “la vague du siècle”. Ce jour-là, les conditions sont dantesques : un swell massif venu du Pacifique Sud crée des vagues atteignant près de 10 mètres de haut, d’une densité et d’une puissance jamais vues. Tiré par un jet-ski grâce à la technique du tow-in surfing, Hamilton parvient à se placer dans un tube monstrueux, un mur d’eau si épais qu’il semble presque solide.
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